American Eagle brass as good as FNH?

[towerofpower93]

Haven't needed additional brass, but I'm slowly chewing through my stash and need to stock up on some once fired.

Is the American Eagle brand brass as good as the FN brass we get with SS197?

I tried the tactical search but couldn't find a topic covering a side by side comparison of the brass from a reloading perspective.

Thanks

Eric

[Buffman]

FNH is the sole provider of 5.7 brass. the AE TMJ brass to my knowledge is the same as SS197SR brass. I remember Jay saying there were differences in the 190/192/195 brass vs the 197.

[bruteandbear1]

I think all the casings are the exact same. The primers are the only difference.

[grimmond]

I think all the casings are the exact same. The primers are the only difference.

Primers, Primer sealer, and primer crimps/no crimps are the only difference that I have noticed when reloading all of the different types. Also American eagle does not always do a good job of gluing the bullets in.

[panzermk2]

LOL AE sometimes doesn't glue them in at all!

[shootinbuzzards]

AE brass is just as good as the real thing. I bought a brick of AE a while back (500 Rnds). I am on the third round of reloads for this set.

If you are pondering a second question the answer for the lacquer coating being an issue is careful cleaning. I use the simple green method for cleaning the brass an has worked quite well.

I have seen posted that some have used Valspar polyurethane for coating shells in question but before you do so; it is suggested that removal of all of the coating be done so that there no uneven spots to cause hang-up in ejecting the shell. I have not tried this method myself as Valspar in a spray can is not something that you can find readily.

I have pondered and did some research on my own and came up with this method and it does work. Moreover; you do not have to remove all of the coating before applying a patch to the existing area in question. When cleaning the brass, you usually tell where the bare spots are when you initially inspect cases prior to reloading. This is a practice that cannot be stressed enough as far as the factor of safe shooting with reloads. Always inspect your cases prior to prepping for the loading all the way to the final crimp. I make it a practice to inspect each case through each step of the load process. If you are new to reloading or new to loading the 5.7, safety cannot be stressed enough. It is better to err on the side of caution instead of sitting in the ER wondering what happened or wanting to kick yourself for taking shortcuts in the load process. Sorry about that, I sort strayed from what I was about to disclose as a possible solution for coating the shells if needed.

This was a tedious task of finding something that would work efficiently and give the desired result with minimal time of doing so. You are going to like this: Aquanet super-hold hairspray ( a very thin type of lacquer). You place several shells in a loading block that is no more than two deep and two inches apart to ensure the proper coating of shells without over-coating some and under-coating others. The hairspray comes out in a mist instead of a spray so you do not get uneven coating or runs in the process. One single pass 12-14 inches from shell/s then turn the block 1/4 - 1/3 turn then coat again and continue the process until all sides are coated. I takes 4-6 minutes to dry. I do this process prior to loading powder when needed. I did a run of 50 to test for consistency and had no issues. I also tried another fifty with same process and then after placing some light gun oil on a lube pad then rolling shell onto the pad and putting into ziplock bag. These shells performed even better than the others. You may try this if you like as I was just sharing some information of getting the most from your brass

[towerofpower93]

Thanks for the rundown on the AE brass bein the same as the 197. Haven't actually put my hands on any of the AE ammo.

Thanks

Eric

[Quincy-74-77]

Good Afternoon, I have just joined the group and this thread seemed best for a brass question I have. Not a master reloader but not a beginner either. I purchased the Ruger pistol and LC Carbine and fired several founds of Federal American Eagle, FNH and Fiocchi ammo. Gathered up the spent shells, cleaned and separated into two groups, FNB “21” and FNB “22” per the stamps on the casings.
I reloaded the “21” brass and once my Sheridan go/no go gauge arrived I gauged both batches and only 3 of 20 were a go for the “21” lot. Attempt to chamber a few of the rounds and it confirmed the no go gauge. The “22” brass was processed, sized and loaded the same as the “21” batch and all of the “22” batch was a go. Do not understand why.
Are there certain brass/ lot numbers I should stay away from? and what brand of new brass is best and available?
Any ideas and input would be appreciated. I have noticed all my fired brass, my once fired brass I ordered as well as my loaded ammo are all stamped FNB 21, 22, or 23. Hornady 2 die set used with C.L 1.130 and O.A.L 1.580 40 gr VMAX. Thanks in advance.

[panzermk2]

All of the AE brass is FNH brass.

1) how did you process the brass?

2) I suspect the issue is your re sizer adjustment. You might have the re sizer adjust to far down and you are creating a shoulder bump. Hornady dies have zero issues.

[Quincy-74-77]

Brass process - Prior to finding the simple green process, these were just hand cleaned with a mild soap and wiped clean. Both brass lots were ran through the same sizer setting. Currently the sizer die is set at a little “cam over” when the sizer die is in the press and the ram is at the top /upper position. Per an article I have from load data.com I have set the decapping assembly lower than normal to “eliminate the sizer die and the expander assembly doing their jobs at the same time”. Bullet seating and crimping done in two separate steps.
I will take your advice and remove the slight cam over setting and raise my decapping assembly to the Hornady setting of 3/16” and run another small batch of cases. I appreciate the input!

[Quincy-74-77]

Brass process - Prior to finding the simple green process, these were just hand cleaned with a mild soap and wiped clean. Both brass lots were ran through the same sizer setting. Currently the sizer die is set at a little “cam over” when the sizer die is in the press and the ram is at the top /upper position. Per an article I have from load data.com I have set the decapping assembly lower than normal to “eliminate the sizer die and the expander assembly doing their jobs at the same time”. Bullet seating and crimping done in two separate steps.
I will take your advice and remove the slight cam over setting and raise my decapping assembly to the Hornady setting of 3/16” and run another small batch of cases. I appreciate the input!

[panzermk2]

Running the decapper to low will also help buckle the shoulder.

Honestly this is the best source for loading info on the 5.7. Forum has crashed over the years and we are working to update the software, but it's been around well over 25 years. All the data posted has been vetted and we even have a dedicated mod for the reloading section.

Can you post a pic of the round that won't fit into the go/nogo gauge sitting as far as it will go into the gauge?

[panzermk2]

Also how are you crimping? Hornady only makes a 2 die set.

[Quincy-74-77]

I have readjusted the decapper to the Hornady recommended 3/16”. This forum definitely has more consistent information than other sites that are out there. For some reason I am unable to post my picture, I tried making the photo smaller per a previous post but no luck.
As for crimping, according to the hornady guide that come with the two die set the seating die is also a crimp die depending on how you set that particular die up.

[panzermk2]

You have to use a third party image hosting site, we are working on upgrading the forum software and hardware.


This is the sight I use currently https://imgur.com/

[panzermk2]

Crimping with the seating die never works. Even on my RCBS dies on my other rifle cartridges I always crimp as a stand alone action. Doing both with the 5.7 is doomed.

The best dies are made by CH4D, Hornady is the second best. They have a stand alone crimp die, I suggest you get one.



https://www.chtoolanddie.com/produ ...

[Quincy-74-77]

When I do use a seating/crimp die, I typically set it up to seat the bullet first then reset the die to perform the crimp. I have read through several post about the success and satisfaction of the CH4D dies, I will purchase one and try it out.


https://imgur.com/Tmc6U2a

[panzermk2]

I looks like the shoulder isn't being bumped back enough.

Measure the base of the case, make sure it's not bulged also.

[Quincy-74-77]

I measured the bases of the go and the no go and they measure the same diameter.
Per your suggestion I was going t purchase the 5.7 die set from CH tooling. The DS5.7x28 includes both the sizer and the crimping seater. I presume that is the crimper you recommended or do you use the available taper crimp die? Appreciate your help!

[panzermk2]

No I suggested the separate crimper die. The 5.7 needs to be crimped and it has to be a separate action.

[Quincy-74-77]

Got it, have the crimper die requested/ordered. Thanks

[Buffman]

I use Lyman dies for 5.7 and have no issues. I do have a separate LEE crimp die that I got lucky on and was able to setup and use in addition to the roll crimp the Lyman does

[panzermk2]

I use Lyman dies for 5.7 and have no issues. I do have a separate LEE crimp die that I got lucky on and was able to setup and use in addition to the roll crimp the Lyman does

Only man to ever get a working Lee crimp die on the first try.